Saving 40% on Fuel By Sucahyo
I have found that 100 mpg is already possible using ordinary fuel right now! You don’t even need a hybrid car (powered by electric motor and fossil fuel engine), and it doesn’t need an engine modification either. Hard to believe, then keep reading! I did it simply by applying hypermiling drive techniques and some cheap self made devices.
In order to reduce our dependency on fossil fuel as well as reduce our toxic emission, we should seek out an alternative to the fossil fuel. Since the alternative is still not ready yet, the other way is to increase the efficiency of the current fossil fuel engine. For a car, 100 miles per gallon is the goal.
To reach that goal, many car manufacturer opt to offer hybrid car, a car that is powered by fossil fuel engine and electric motor. The electric motor will help push the car during acceleration with the stored excess energy during cruising or braking. It did help the car to get better mileage, but it is still not enough to reach 100 mpg goal, most would only obtain around 50 mpg in real life. And in real life, a car with small engine and small body can easily reach that number as well.
A Fuel efficient car
The type of car that can easily reach high mileage is the one with light body and with power tuned for fuel efficiency. Many city car today are more fuel efficient than before. Unfortunately, to satisfy the consumer demand of more power, many car are tuned to get maximum power at a rather high engine rpm, which make it hard or not possible to drive it at low rpm, because the car will be simply too weak to run at low rpm. The car should be more fuel efficient when run at low engine rpm, this will be explained later.
In Indonesia, fuel efficient car has been offered as a part of low cost green car program, or LCGC in short. The cars that are part of LCGC program are:
– Daihatsu Ayla, 1000cc, 3 cylinder, 65hp, 760kg
– Honda Brio Satya, 1200cc, 4 cylinder, 88hp, 930kg
– Nissan Datsun Go, 1200cc, 3 cylinder, 68hp, 794kg
– Suzuki Wagon R, 1000cc, 3 cylinder, 68hp, 835kg
– Toyota Agya, 1000cc, 3 cylinder, 65hp, 780kg
All car have the capability of exceeding the 20km/liter (47 mpg) limit required for LCGC program. With correct driving method, people do able to achieve that in real life, and even exceed it.
To get the best mileage, to allow driving at high gear and on low engine rpm, the car needs to be equipped with a manual transmission. Most cars with an automatic transmission don’t generally allow the driver to cruise in high gear -or-on low a rpm because the cars engine will automatically down shift if driven in a low engine rpm. To access better fuel efficiency, some cars with automatic transmission are equipped with what is known as an overdrive feature that allows the car to run at an efficient engine rpm. Note: They run at around 2000 rpm, but it’s not not low enough.
Let’s have a look at this, you will be astounded!
Hypermiling techniques are a collection of methods that will help you to acheive better fuel efficiency. Hypermiling is not about driving slow, but driving smart. One example would be to drive at constant speed at the most fuel efficient speed. The most fuel efficient speed usually occurs when you are operating the vehicle in high gear coupled with a low engine rpm.
The graph from TTA below illustrates this.
The graph shows that the best mileage can be obtained at the highest gear and low vehicle speed. Wiki also mentions the same thing, it actually states that the most fuel efficient engine rpm is around 1000 rpm :Check it out!
Because cruising at an efficient speed uses much less (fuel) than the maximum power of the engine, the optimum operating point for cruising at low power is typically at very low engine speed, around or below 1000 rpm.
Unfortunately driving the car in a low engine rpm can be damaging to the engine. Most modern cars are designed to run at a high engine rpm, typically above 2000 rpm. Forcing the car to cruise at 1000 rpm can make the engine vibrate or knock and this can damage the engine in the long run. In order to operate the vehicle in an engine speed this low, the car would need to be modified.
Conventional mileage enhancing method
Not all conventional engine power modifications can be used to increase the fuel efficiency for low engine rpm operation. Most modifications or after market parts are designed to only increase power at a higher rpm. Below are a few some personal reviews of what I have found regarding a ‘modification option’ for low engine rpm driving. Keep in mind that some modifications can void the vehicles warranty and some are even illegal depending on where you live. Before modifying your engine, please make sure they are legal!
Believe it or not, it has been proven that tires with less traction will increase fuel efficiency, in other words, the less that the tire contacts the road, the higher the fuel efficiency. Unfortunately, reducing the tire width will reduce the tire grip and stability during cornering, so it must be done with care. The tire width are mentioned as part of tire specification. A 185/60 R13 has tire width of 185 mm, a more fuel efficient alternative with almost the same tire diameter would be 145/80 R13, with tire width of 145 mm. While some say higher tire pressure can increase fuel economy, I believe that it is better to adhere to what the car manufacturer recommends for your tire pressure. The increase of mileage from over inflating the tire is not significant enough compared to the reduced safety, the increase is too small so it is better to stick with the preferred tire pressure.
– Engine health: To get a good mileage, it is very important to keep the car working at an optimum condition.This means, don’t miss the recommended periodic maintenance and cleaning that are suggested by the manufacturer. Make sure that the air filter is clean and works properly and perform carbon cleaning once in a while to reduce carbon deposits. Replace the spark plugs when needed. If your car is already few years old, it’s also important to make sure that the oxygen sensor is working properly. A faulty oxygen sensor can actually reduce fuel efficiency up to 40%.
– Radiator coolant: Make sure that the cooling system works properly. If you live in an area where your weather is warm it’s best to reduce the anti freeze concentration, you don’t need it. Water is the best coolant for the radiator and works better than anti freeze . For hot weather, the water percentage should be around 70%. On the other hand, if you live in an area of cooler weather to very cold weather, you may may need to do the opposite; only 30% water, to prevent the radiator liquid from freezing. Unfortunately, the car dealership can give you the wrong radiator coolant. Personally, I live in a hot weather climate and I have experienced purchasing the car dealership giving me the wrong coolant that resulted in my car loosing power, especially during the day. This lead to poor gas mileage but fortunately I simply added water, and the symptoms vanished.
– Water injection: Water injection reduces ‘ knocking and pinging’ and helps the engine to run more smoothly in a low engine rpm. Here is an example of an inexpensive and simple ‘do it yourself ‘ water injection system that you can do yourself!
Rambo1965’s Water Injection Thread
– Air bleed: This is simply letting more air going to the throttle body by creating leak in the engine vacuum tube. This will increase the power at low engine rpm at the cost of reduced power at high engine rpm. Since the goal is to increase the power in the low rpm range, this is can be a good solution. One popular commercial device for this is “HKS Kompressor”. It is basically an air filter with a vacuum gauge and valve. It is suggested to bleed air with pressure at 2 point lower than the maximum. If it is originally at 20 then we set the air bleed valve to reach 18.
– Side branch pipe, Helmholtz resonator: This method is originally used to reduce drone, annoying low frequency sound / vibration caused by exhaust pipe resonance. It need a pipe with the same size of the exhaust pipe, with the length of a quarter wave of the drone frequency. However, it appear that this also can be used to increase the power at low rpm too. Anyone know how to do this, please share:
Advanced Resonance Tuning (ART pipes)
– Exhaust upgrade: This is the common choice to increase car performance. Unfortunately most after market exhaust are tuned for racing, as result, it can give worse performance at low engine rpm. For driving on low engine rpm, standard exhaust may give better result than after market exhaust.
– Port and polish: This is another modification that allow car to get more power. Most of port and polish service are aimed to increase the power at high rpm driving, but it can be used to increase the power at very low rpm driving too. Correct port and polish can significantly increase driveability and power at low engine rpm.
– ECU modification: This is can be a required modification to get the most fuel efficient driving. However this modification often imperfect and produce problem. Most are not designed for low rpm driving, but the one that support the tuning of low rpm driving can give considerably increase in fuel efficiency.
– Forced induction, supercharger / turbo: this is a potent power modification, however this modification may reduce the fuel efficiency of low engine rpm driving. Forced induction are used to increase the power at high rpm range, this modification often require sacrificing the power at low engine rpm.
– Plasma ignition: This modification significantly increase the size of the spark. While this may help during high rpm, this modification can also reduce engine driveability in low egine rpm because bigger spark may cause combustion failure. This modification often require racing / multi contact spark plug that is designed for high rpm driving too.
– Oil catch tank: this is modification is usually used in a race car to capture the oil from PCV line. Recently many owner of city car start to install this modification too. I believe that this may reduce low engine rpm fuel efficiency, because the hot oil vapor that coming from the engine is being cooled down in the oil catch tank and make it harder to burn and reduce engine power. A better solution would be to make it burn better by either applying exhaust heat (GEET style) or using fuel reformer device.
– Correct fuel octane: It is very important to use correct fuel octane. Not too high, not too low. Too high will increase engine temperature, and too low will reduce power and can cause engine damage. Unless you use fuel reformer device.
– Fuel additive: This is usually done by adding liquid to the fuel tank. This modification can be effective, it can increase mileage by more than 10%. However, make sure that it is save and harmless either for the engine or for the environment. Some fuel additive is harmful to the engine (MMT, TEL & Ferrocene) and some is toxic (MTBE & Naphtalene). Some fuel additives really just scams, but I’m sure you’ve probably figured that out by now.
Alternative mileage enhancing method
100mpg car is the goal of many free energy researchers. Those researchers have research and compare many methods to obtain that results. The most famous one is 100mpg pogue carburettor, where the gasoline was converted into gas before entering combustion chamber. The gas form of the fuel allow a more efficient mileage up to 100 mpg or more. Unfortunately it is no longer possible to do because the current gasoline has a lot of additive that can make the vaporizer part malfunction fast. The free energy researcher are forced to look for the alternative way. Unfortunately, some people selling scam in the name of free energy research that hamper the research progress. Some of the alternative are
– AVEC / VORTEX air at intake: This seems to be a popular modification with detailed documentation in France. This can be done with a simple air twisting device made from a tin can. This simple modification can lead to more than 5% mileage increase. This one was suggested by Pas Lot.
“A.V.E.C.” (Air + Vortex = Economiseur Carburant)
Here is another method of twisting the air by Ted Ewert:
Ted’s Poor man’s turbo
– Fuel reformer: device that change the property of fuel. Off the shelf / commercial device usually use ferrite or magnet. In free energy there are joe cell, the hull effect, and my own cemenite. Some variation use electromagnet too. If the device has strong effect, it will require power limit, otherwise the engine will suffer “over rich fuel mixture” effect. To solve it, the device power need to be controlled or the fuel mixture need to be set more lean. Ferrite and cemenite can also improve combustion by attaching them to the spark plug wire. Other than the hull effect, this modification can increase power of the whole rpm range, but it is the low rpm driveability that get the most significant improvement.
– Fuel vaporizer: this device use vaporized the fuel to add power. There are various implementation. Some use exhaust heat like GEET or HCS. Some use a simple bubbler to pass through air to fuel or oil or water or methanol. This kind of device usually screwing up fuel mixture so it would work best with ECU modification or at least require air bleed valve. This modification can increase fuel efficiency and driveability on low engine rpm.
– Hydroxy / HHO: this device use electrolysis to split water into oxygen and hydrogen. This device is very popular and unfortunately also have a lot of scam. There are various design from very poor and dangerous (usually a jar with electrode in it and baking soda) to a very efficient and sturdy design (big shinny stainless steel device with electronic controller). This modification also screwing up fuel mixture and usually sold with ECU modification device. Like Fuel Vaporizer, the output of hydroxy system tend to be static. This modification can increase fuel efficiency and driveability on low engine rpm.
You can read some explanation of mileage enhancing free energy device on the document bellow:
Patrick J. Kelly, A Practical Guide to Free-Energy Devices, Chapter 10: Automotive Systems
My car is Daihatsu Ayla Tipe M. It comes with economy tire, 155/80 R13. The engine is 3 cylinder 1000cc, with 65hp@6000rpm and 8.8kgm@3600rpm. The recommended fuel is RON95 but I use RON88. This is intentional since I believe that my modification is good enough to compensate the difference in octance. I use 6 small device made with cemenite technology. I put 4 at the fuel line, 1 at spark plug wire and 1 at the PCV pipe. Since I only need to attach them, I do not need to modify anything. The car is stock without any modification.
The best result from published article for Daihatsu Ayla report 28km/liter (65 mpg). But I found that getting 35km/liter (82 mpg) is easy:
Experimenting and patience
I have experimented with a few combinations of gear and rpm. I suggest you have patience during the experiment, in the end it will be worth your efforts!
I have found that driving in 3rd gear at 2000 rpm produced 25 km/liter, and 4th gear at 1200rpm producde 35km/liter.( Both are at the same speed). Cruising at around 30km/hour at the 1st gear produce 11km/liter, 2nd gear produce 18km/liter and 3rd gear produce 25km/liter. So it is clear that cruising at higher gear produce better mileage for the same speed.
Then I found that the best mileage happened when I drove at 45km/hour at 5th gear.
I got 45.6km/liter which is equal to 107mpg (US). Some people assume that driving with rpm that low make their engine vibrate and knocking, but I have shown that it is possible to do. If your car can not run at low rpm without problem, then try some of the above modification.
Even though I do get better gas mileage, I must say the vehicles power has not decreased either, which is a positive thing. I would like to make some comparisons with others out there who are attempting modifications as well, so I would like to hear from you. I have obtained better gas mileage with the help of the modifications that I made as well better power. It can be done.
I hope you can try this too. Please share your results.
If you liked my article, please check out others I have written in the past as well HERE